Vancouver Has It All
You Might Even Get To Bag Your Own Mountie

BY ANDREW COLLINS

In Vancouver, one of the world’s most stunning cities, you can kayak in English Bay in the morning before skiing down Grouse Mountain later that afternoon -- indeed, few cities offer better access to the great outdoors. The city’s glimmering, postmodern city center anchors a peninsula jutting into the rippling Strait of Georgia, its shoreline sculpted by bays and inlets. From just about anywhere on this peninsula, you’re within walking distance of two beaches, leafy Stanley Park, the ultra-gay Davie Village district, and several similarly diverting neighborhoods. It’s for all these reasons that Vancouver -- which is also in a country that has legalized same-sex marriage -- has emerged as one of the most wonderful gay destinations in the world.

For Americans, visiting Vancouver is quite easy. The city is just a three-hour drive north of Seattle, and it also has direct flights from numerous U.S. cities. Just keep in mind that in a couple of years, you will be required to show a valid passport when crossing the border (right now, technically, you can get by with a driver’s license, but if you don’t have a passport, you’re likely to be pulled aside and questioned thoroughly). Also keep in mind that the U.S. dollar has become increasingly weak against the Canadian dollar in recent years, so traveling to Vancouver isn’t quite the bargain it was a couple of years ago. Still, overall, it’s less expensive than New York, San Francisco, London, and many other places of comparable popularity.

Vancouver is a highly progressive place -- feminists, lesbians, and gays play a prominent role in local politics, have helped rejuvenate several flagging neighborhoods, and support a compact but potent restaurant and club scene. The West End, which abuts downtown and was a prostitution-ridden eyesore in the 1980s, is the city’s main gay commercial and residential sector. You’ll find most of the gay nightlife and social scene along a roughly eight-block stretch of Davie Street known as Davie Village. Farther north, Davie intersects with another lively strip of cool shops and restaurants, Denman Street. At this intersection, you’re just steps from sparkling English Bay Beach, a fine spot to catch a few rays on a warm afternoon.

Davie Village is a terrific neighborhood for eating and bar-hopping. Bin 941 exemplifies the growing popularity of tapas-style restaurants in Vancouver. Try the mussels steamed with habanero chiles, kafir-lime leaf, and cypress-honey lager, and enjoy a local vintage from the fabulous wine list. The campy and affordable Cafe Luxy serves humongous portions of pasta, and nearby Hamburger Mary’s is a fun, late-night bet for burgers, fries, and diner fare. Near where Davie meets Denman, you can sample inventive Pacific Northwestern cuisine at the Raincity Grill, where dishes like grilled bison strip loin with lentil-and-braised-rib ragout await you. Grab an espresso nearby at gay-popular Delany’s or up the street at Melriches, which is just around the corner from the acclaimed queer book and gift shop, Little Sisters.

Later in the evening, check out Davie Street’s gay bars, the most popular being Celebrities and the Odyssey, which both draw young, stylish crowds. Both spots pull their share of lesbians, but Celebrities is the more diverse of the two. The Odyssey has a festive patio and a great little dance floor. Other fun drinking spots along Davie include Oasis (an attractively decorated piano cabaret and restaurant), Pumpjack (a neighborhood pub with a leather-and-Levi’s vibe), 1181 (an ultra-chichi martini lounge drawing a well-coiffed crowd), Fountainhead Pub (a fun sports bar with a great patio), and Numbers (a lovably dive-y cruise bar with three levels). If you’re looking for action, drop by one of the city’s popular bathhouses, F212 Steam or M2M Playspace. The latter is part of the saucy (but quite affordable) Fahrenheit Hotel, a men’s sex-plex with private rooms. There are, however, rooms on one floor that are geared more toward guests who want to keep their clothes on and get a good night’s sleep.

There are several gay-friendly bed-and-breakfasts and hotels in the neighborhood, the upscale West End Guest House being among the best, with its beautifully decorated Edwardian rooms. Another luxurious B&B that’s highly appealing is O’Canada House, whose rooms have spacious tile baths. A bit less pricey but still with ample charm, handsome furnishings, friendly hosts, and a great location near Davie Village, Nelson House has six inviting guest rooms. You’ll find 195 spacious, contemporary suites with full kitchens and moderate rates at the Sandman Suites, a popular full-service hotel right in the heart of Davie Village -- amenities include the popular Moxie’s Grill restaurant, a spa, and a fitness center. If you’re on a budget, the Inn at False Creek Quality Hotel is a reputable and affordable chain option on the edge of Davie Village.

Just steps from the West End you’ll discover the beautiful, rugged Stanley Park, which occupies a peninsula of more than 1,000 unspoiled acres of lush greenery, forests of cedar and Douglas fir, sandy beaches, and panoramic maritime vistas. From here it’s a short drive to North Vancouver, home to Grouse Mountain ski area. For a great photo-op, stop by the nearby 450-foot-long Capilano Suspension Bridge, which swings gently (for the most part) 230 feet above the river below it.

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